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Elbrus is the highest mountain-mass in the Big Caucasus
Mountains. This two-summit cone – an extinct volcano – is situated
in the system of the Bokovey range. The western altitude of its
summit is 5,642m and its eastern, 5,621m. Elbrus is covered by an
ice-cap, from which descend 54 glaciers. The common area of these
glaciers is 134.5 êì2 and the most famous of them are the Big and
Small Azai, Irik and Terskol. The area of ice makes up 134.5
êâ.êì.
At the moment there are some mountain shelters on Elbrus with one level
of service. Traditionally, the most popular shelter is the “Áî÷êè”
(Barrels), situated at an altitude of almost 3,800m, which is above the
cable-car route. The popularity of this shelter can be explained by
the constant electricity (which means heating), its nearness to cable-car
routes and the optimal location according to altitude.
At a place agreed, in 1998 the construction of Shelter 11 was completed
which is now another popular Preilbrussky shelter — Diesel Hut
(4,050m). It inherited its name from the completed diesel station,
providing heating for Shelter 11 (for example, (ïðèì. íà àíãë –Refuge 11,
ïîýòîìó íå äîëæíî ïîëó÷èòüñÿ ìàñëà-ìàñëÿíîãî). Excluding Barrels and
Diesel Hut there are some shelters — however, they are lower
down.
The popularity of Elbrus, as the region of great climbs and the highest
point in Europe, means the owners of the shelters (mountain-homes) do not
have to worry about too little trade and at peak season everywhere is
reserved and booked in advance.
The climb up Elbrus requires preliminary acclimatization. The
altitude is rather heavy, which is explained by the northern location of
the mountain and its volcanic origins. When there is quiet calm
weather you can sense light smells and volcanic gases.
Comparing the climb up Elbrus with other climbs of a similar
height, for example, up Kilamanjaro, one of the key differences is the
severe conditions of the region. The altitude is particularly sharp
and the cold and changing altitudes, which are experienced on route,
demand physical strength and determination from the climber.
The best period in which to climb Elbrus is ten days. Five or six
of these are spent on neighbouring summits to reach the necessary level of
acclimatization. However, it is possible to do everything in a week,
although you run the risk of unstable weather conditions and too short a
period of acclimatization.
Climbing usually begins early morning or perhaps at night – whatever
gives maximum use of daylight hours. However, climbing too early in
the morning makes it harder for mountain-climbers as it is still very cold
at this time of day, the sun is not yet out and the altitude is already
high. The best time to set off is three or four in the
morning. A prepared group can make the climb from the Barrels
shelter to the western summit in nine hours, and eight hours, if starting
from Diesel Hut.
There are snowmobiles constantly in operation on Elbrus. They are
used to lift climbers as far as Shepherd’s Cliff, which is at an altitude
of 4,600m. Using snowmobiles saves time and energy.
The key points in the Elbrus climb are, of course, Shepherd’s Cliff
(4,600-4,800m), Kosyya (or Traverse), Sidlovina (5,350m), the plateau of
summits and the very top summit itself.
The route up Elbrus has been marked. However, this does not
obviate the need for orientation up the mountain. The use of GPS or
a compass is strongly advised. The weather in the mountains is
variable and levels of visibility vary accordingly. Quick
changes in weather are often the cause of emergencies on the mountain,
burdened by tiredness and high-altitudes, climbers can experience some
physical reactions. Adequate perception of the task ahead, good physical
training and a cautious attitude towards your own life and those around
you can help to avoid such emergency situations. Employing the
services of a guide is also strongly advised. |
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