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Elbrus climb


Elbrus is the highest mountain-mass in the Big Caucasus Mountains.  This two-summit cone – an extinct volcano – is situated in the system of the Bokovey range.  The western altitude of its summit is 5,642m and its eastern, 5,621m.  Elbrus is covered by an ice-cap, from which descend 54 glaciers.  The common area of these glaciers is 134.5 êì2  and the most famous of them are the Big and Small Azai, Irik and Terskol.   The area of ice makes up 134.5 êâ.êì.

At the moment there are some mountain shelters on Elbrus with one level of service.  Traditionally, the most popular shelter is the “Áî÷êè” (Barrels), situated at an altitude of almost 3,800m, which is above the cable-car route.  The popularity of this shelter can be explained by the constant electricity (which means heating), its nearness to cable-car routes and the optimal location according to altitude.

At a place agreed, in 1998 the construction of Shelter 11 was completed which is now another popular Preilbrussky shelter — Diesel Hut (4,050m).  It inherited its name from the completed diesel station, providing heating for Shelter 11 (for example, (ïðèì. íà àíãë –Refuge 11, ïîýòîìó íå äîëæíî ïîëó÷èòüñÿ ìàñëà-ìàñëÿíîãî). Excluding Barrels and Diesel Hut there are some shelters — however, they are lower down.         

The popularity of Elbrus, as the region of great climbs and the highest point in Europe, means the owners of the shelters (mountain-homes) do not have to worry about too little trade and at peak season everywhere is reserved and booked in advance.

The climb up Elbrus requires preliminary acclimatization.  The altitude is rather heavy, which is explained by the northern location of the mountain and its volcanic origins.  When there is quiet calm weather you can sense light smells and volcanic gases.   Comparing the climb up Elbrus with other climbs of a similar height, for example, up Kilamanjaro, one of the key differences is the severe conditions of the region.  The altitude is particularly sharp and the cold and changing altitudes, which are experienced on route, demand physical strength and determination from the climber.

The best period in which to climb Elbrus is ten days.  Five or six of these are spent on neighbouring summits to reach the necessary level of acclimatization. However, it is possible to do everything in a week, although you run the risk of unstable weather conditions and too short a period of acclimatization. 

Climbing usually begins early morning or perhaps at night – whatever gives maximum use of daylight hours.  However, climbing too early in the morning makes it harder for mountain-climbers as it is still very cold at this time of day, the sun is not yet out and the altitude is already high.  The best time to set off is three or four in the morning.  A prepared group can make the climb from the Barrels shelter to the western summit in nine hours, and eight hours, if starting from Diesel Hut.

There are snowmobiles constantly in operation on Elbrus.  They are used to lift climbers as far as Shepherd’s Cliff, which is at an altitude of 4,600m.  Using snowmobiles saves time and energy.

The key points in the Elbrus climb are, of course, Shepherd’s Cliff (4,600-4,800m), Kosyya (or Traverse), Sidlovina (5,350m), the plateau of summits and the very top summit itself.

The route up Elbrus has been marked.  However, this does not obviate the need for orientation up the mountain.  The use of GPS or a compass is strongly advised.  The weather in the mountains is variable and   levels of visibility vary accordingly. Quick changes in weather are often the cause of emergencies on the mountain, burdened by tiredness and high-altitudes, climbers can experience some physical reactions. Adequate perception of the task ahead, good physical training and a cautious attitude towards your own life and those around you can help to avoid such emergency situations.  Employing the services of a guide is also strongly advised.






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